Stitching La Mode Patterns and Dressmaking from Fashion Plates of 1785 1795 1st Edition by Carolyn Dowdell 9781032080543 103208054X

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ISBN 10: 103208054X
ISBN 13: 9781032080543  
Author: Carolyn Dowdell

Stitching La Mode: Patterns and Dressmaking from Fashion Plates of 1785-1795 brings to life women’s unique and extravagant fashions of 1785-1795 in a beautifully illustrated and accessible way. The book consists of scaled patterns directly based on original French, German and English fashion plates drafted according to period-accurate shapes. The patterns encompass the full look presented in each fashion plate from garments to accessories. These are accompanied by a color image of the corresponding fashion plate, straightforward, illustrated directions for recreating the outfits, information on the material used and modelled reproductions of each plate to demonstrate what they would look like in “real life”. The book focuses on unique styles often seen in fashion plates but rarely – if ever – patterned before, making this a fresh and exciting yet historically accurate take on late eighteenth-century fashion. Stitching La Mode significantly expands the understanding of transitional fashions from the late eighteenth century with concrete, physical examples of styles, perfectly suited for costume technicians and makers, costume historians and hobby costumers and re-enactors.

Stitching La Mode Patterns and Dressmaking from Fashion Plates of 1785 1795 1st Table of contents:

Chapter 1 Introduction
Section 1 Historical Context and How-To’s

Chapter 2 Fashion, Fashion Plates and Dressmaking, 1785–1795
Fashion
Fashion Plates
Dressmaking
Bibliography

Chapter 3 Enlarging and Altering the Patterns
Copy Shop
Home Computer
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Step 5
Enlarging by Hand with a Grid
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Altering the Patterns
Pattern Measurements
Taking Your Own Measurements
Using the Measurements
Pattern Alteration Methods

Chapter 4 Master Sewing Instructions
Master Set of Sewing Stitches
Running Stitch
Backstitch
Hem Stitch
Whip Stitch
Slip Stitch
Locked Running Stitch
Pricked Backstitch
Master Instructions for Seams, Hems and Gathers
Seams
Hems
Gathering Methods
Master Instructions for Garment Sewing
1780s Basic Bodice
Additional Options
1780s Open Front Gown Skirt
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Step 4.1a
Step 4.1b
Step 4.2a
Step 4.2b
Step 4.2c
Step 4.2d
Step 4.2e
Step 4.3a
Step 4.3b
Step 4.3c
Step 5 (Optional)
Drop-Front or Apron-Front Gown Skirt
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Step 5
Step 6
Sleeves
Lined One-Piece Sleeve
Two-Piece Sleeve
Unlined One-Piece Sleeve
Cutaway Bodice Front
Combined Layers
Separate Layers
Additional Variation
“En Fourreau” Gown
Pleated Variation
Seamed Variation
Chemise Gown
Step 1
Step 2
Step 3
Step 4
Step 5
Step 6
Step 7
Step 8
Step 9
Step 10
Step 11
Step 12
Step 13
Step 13.1a (Optional)
Step 13.1b
Step 14
Step 15
Step 16
Step 17
Step 18
Step 19
Step 20
Standing Collar
Bound Edges
Sewn Edges
Shoulder Capes
Unlined Shoulder Cape
Lined Shoulder Cape
Buttons, Buttonholes, Eyelets
Covered Button
Dorset Button
Hand-Bound Buttonhole
Hand-Worked Eyelet
Bows
Two-Loop Bow
Four-Loop Bow from One Length of Ribbon
Knotted Four-Loop Bow

Section 2 Fashion Plate Patterns and Recreations

Chapter 5 1785 Caraco Jacket and Petticoat
Description
Materials Used
Construction Steps for 1786 Jacket and Petticoat
Petticoat
Jacket
Apron

Chapter 6 1786 Robe à la Turque and Petticoat
Description
Materials Used
Construction Steps for 1786 Gown and Petticoat
Petticoat
Gown
Pleated Neckline Ruffle
Belt

Chapter 7 1787 Robe à l’Anglaise and Petticoat
Description
Materials Used
Construction Steps for 1787 Gown and Petticoat
Petticoat
Gown
Alternate Sleeve Style

Chapter 8 1788 Robe à l’Anglaise and Petticoat
Description
Materials Used
Construction Steps for 1788 Gown and Petticoat
Petticoat
Gown
Waist Sash
Neckline Ruffle

Chapter 9 1789 Chemise-Caraco Variation
Description
Materials Used
Construction Steps for 1789 Chemise-Caraco
Gown
Sleeve Cuffs
Collar
Looped Peplum and Bow
Ruffled Handkerchief/Chemisette

Chapter 10 1790 Chemise Gown
Description/Interpretation
Materials Used
Construction Steps for 1790 Gown
Gown
Sash

Chapter 11 1790 Jacket and Petticoat
Description/Interpretation
Materials Used
Construction Steps for 1790 Pierrot Jacket and Petticoat
Petticoat
Jacket
Sash/Belt
Neckline Ruffle

Chapter 12 1791 Lévite Gown and Petticoat
Description/Interpretation
Materials Used
Construction Steps for 1791 Lévite Gown and Petticoat
Petticoat
Lévite Gown
Sash

Chapter 13 1792 Robe à l’Anglaise and Petticoat
Description
Materials Used
Construction Steps for 1792 Gown and Petticoat
Petticoat
Gown

Chapter 14 1793 Chemise Gown Variation and Petticoat
Description
Materials Used
Construction Steps for 1793 Gown and Petticoat
Petticoat
Gown

Chapter 15 1794 Open-Front Round Gown
Description
Materials Used
Construction Steps for 1794 Gown
Gown

Chapter 16 1794 Drop-Front Round Gown and Open Robe
Description
Materials Used
Construction Steps for 1794 Round Gown and Open Robe
Gown
Open Robe
Gown
Open Robe
Ruffled Handkerchief
Sash

Chapter 17 1795 Riding Habit
Description
Materials Used
Construction Steps for 1795 Riding Habit
Sleeveless Shirt (Chemisette)
Petticoat
Waistcoat
Jacket
Neck Stock

Index

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